Tag: Hildegard

Hildegard Origin Story – Wine Fit for a Queen

Published

When I started working at Au Bon Climat a decade ago, I was amazed at how many great wines they produced. So, when I was introduced to Hildegard, my first thought was, why would you make another wine that’s a blend? Was it a gimmick?

Once tasted, I had my answer. Hildegard immediately became one of my favorites. It has an opulent texture yet light on its feet. The fruit is expressive but reigned in and complimented by the oak. The wine also has a great story that is part of a legend and, as in all folklore, has many versions; this is mine.

Mythic Background

Burgundy’s wine history goes back centuries to the King of the Franks, Charlemagne. During his rule in the early 800s, the importance of wine and viticulture exploded. A bon vivant, Charlemagne enjoyed his wine, often having boisterous parties causing red wine to stain his white beard. This made his wife Hildegard, miffed. The solution? White wine. To appease her, Charlemagne planted white varietals Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Aligoté. Chardonnay did not come to the famed Corton Charlemagne region until centuries later.

The Spark

As a frequent visitor of Burgundy starting in his 20s, Jim Clendenen established friendships with many winemakers there, and soaked up their knowledge. These were the kingpins of Chardonnay the rest of the world looked up to, including him. France has been making wine for centuries while California had training wheels. Even so, discussions and comparisons ensued. I believe some bragging was involved. This triggered Jim to ask, ‘Can I make a great white Burgundy like Corton-Charlemagne in Santa Barbara?’ In his deep dive for answers, Jim went all the way back to Burgundy’s roots.

The Experiment

Intrigued by its history, Jim decided to recreate the original plantings of Corton Charlemagne. He sourced Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Aligoté from vines planted in the Santa Maria Valley that has terroir similar to Burgundy. Each varietal was made individually using Old World techniques with the finest barrels. The blend created a complex, creamy white wine with a fruit profile and personality separate from Chardonnay yet had similar qualities. It was wonderful. It was Burgundy-esque, but not white Burgundy. Nonetheless, a worthy name was needed and since the title Charlemagne was taken, the wine was deemed Hildegard, after his queen. An instant hit, Au Bon Climat has been making Hildegard ever since.

Moral of the Story

Great Burgundies will never be precisely replicated anywhere else. At ABC we can create world class, Burgundian-styled wine that may resemble its French counterpart, yet it will always reflect the inherent properties of our region. That is what makes it special. We can never be Burgundy, nor would we want to.

Recipe

While Chardonnay and our Hildegard Estate White share similar traits, Hildegard has a more expressive fruit character and crispness that makes it incredibly food compatible. Its velvety mouthfeel and bright citrus notes are a heavenly pair with creamy, rich chicken dishes, like Chicken Gérard.

By Katie O’Hara

Chicken Gaston Gérard

Published

Yet another kitchen disaster made good in the name of invention. The recipe was created in 1930 by the wife of the Deputy Mayor of Dijon, Gaston Gérard. She was cooking for an esteemed guest, Maurice Edmond Sailland, AKA Curnonsky, a celebrated food writer dubbed The Prince of Gastronomy. Gravity intervened and she accidentally dumped a load of paprika into the chicken dish Madame Gérard was cooking. To rectify it she added crème fraiche, white wine and a dollop of mustard. Curnonsky loved it, and he named the dish after his host. It is now a Dijon classic.

Suggested Pairing: While Chardonnay and our Hildegard Estate White share similar traits, Hildegard has a more expressive fruit character and crispness that makes it incredibly food compatible. Its velvety mouthfeel and bright citrus notes are a heavenly pair with creamy, rich chicken dishes.

Ingredients:

  • 6 chicken breasts
  • 3 Tbsp Olive oil
  • 3 Tbsp butter
  • Sea salt and fresh ground pepper
  • 1 large shallot, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 1/4 cups dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • ¾ cup Crème Fraiche (or sour cream if creme fraiche is unavailable)
  • 3/4 cup grated Comté or Gruyère cheese
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme (optional), leaves removed and chopped
  • 3 Tbsp dry breadcrumbs

Procedure:

  1. Preheat oven to 350F.
  2. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Salt and pepper the chicken pieces. Heat oil & butter in skillet until butter is sizzling and frothy. Brown the chicken breasts; about 3-4 minutes each side.
  3. Transfer the chicken to a baking dish and then place in the oven to finish cooking, about 10-15 minutes. 
  4. In the same skillet, sauté the shallot until golden then add white wine, simmering until wine is reduced by about half. Lower the heat and add to it the creme fraiche, mustard, thyme and paprika and let simmer a few minutes more.
  5. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with grated cheese then top with breadcrumbs.
  6. Return to oven to warm chicken and melt cheese.
  7. Serve immediately with a baguette (or wild rice), mixed green salad and a glass of Hildegard.